The British author William Thackeray once said of New Orleans
that it was "the old Franco-Spanish city on the banks
of the Mississippi, where, of all the cities in the world,
you can eat the most and suffer the least." This tribute
still rings as true in the French Quarter as in the rest
of the city, where spectacular repasts are prepared and
served with consummate artistry and seemingly effortless
skill in dozens of fine restaurants.
To
many serious gourmands, the raison d'être (reason for existence)
of the French Quarter is Creole cuisine -- an exuberant,
richly textured union of delicate French artistry with Spanish
piquancy and African earthiness. Oysters Rockefeller; Bananas
Foster; Shrimp Remoulade; these and other savory dishes
were invented here and are sufficient inducement for many
to make a gustatory pilgrimage to the city. In addition
to Creole fare and its humbler cousin, Cajun cooking, visitors
can sate their appetites in the Quarter with classic French,
Italian, American, and a variety of ethnic offerings. Prices
are equally diverse, ranging from the $3.50 street-corner
Lucky Dog hot dog, a requisite experience for the over-served,
to the $28.00 Pompano en Papillote at Antoine's
and beyond.
Breakfast
happens whenever you want it in the Quarter, whether you
prefer 4:00 am griddlefests, sunrise coffee and beignets,
or mid-afternoon jazz-brunch decadence.
For
late-night noshing, you can't beat the Clover Grill (http://www.clovergrill.com)
at 919 Bourbon Street and Poppy's Grill (http://www.poppysgrill.com)
at 717 St. Peter Street, two 24-hour eateries that emulate
the diners of yesteryear while dishing up eggs and bacon,
waffles, burgers, sandwiches, and other standard luncheonette
fare. The atmosphere is relaxed, the décor is gritty 50's,
and the food is yum.
Another
Quarter mainstay is Café du Monde (http://www.cafedumonde.com)
at 1039 Decatur Street, which has flourished in this same
spot for over 150 years by selling little more than café
au lait (coffee and milk) and beignets. Beignets are French
doughnuts; delicate little powdered-sugar-dusted puffs of
fried dough perfect for a luscious breakfast treat. Everyone
should eat them at least once; everyone should remember
to wear white when they do. For a wider selection of authentic
French pastries, try the La Marquise Patisserie de Roi at
625 Chartres Street or its sister location, Croissant d'Or
at 615 Ursulines, both of which represent an excellent value.
If
you're looking for a no-holds-barred breakfast extravagance,
the top contenders in the Quarter are Brennan's (http://neworleansrestaurants.com/brennans/)
at 417 Royal Street, where Eggs Benedict is a culinary footnote
and history is an ingredient in many of the cocktails, and
The Court of Two Sisters (http://www.courtoftwosisters.com)
at 613 Royal Street, which boasts a magnificent courtyard
and a delectable Jazz Brunch.
Those
who don't blow it out at breakfast can indulge at lunch,
which is the time to sample some of the Quarter's more elegant
offerings at lower-than-dinner prices. Presiding at 209
Bourbon Street is Galatoire's (http://neworleans.sidewalk.msn.com/Link/3938
[zagat listing]), since 1905 one of the French Quarter's
most venerated dining establishments. Generations of native
New Orleanians have supped on its French/Creole classics;
no reservations are accepted and the attire is distinctly
dressy.
Equally
extraordinary French/Creole establishments are the 160-year-old
Antoine's
New Orleans' oldest restaurant located at 713 St. Louis
Street, the 81-year-old Arnaud's (http://www.arnauds.com)
at 813 Bienville Street and the newer but no less praiseworthy
Broussard's (http://www.broussard's.com) at 819 Conti Street.
Want
to try Creole in a slightly less imposing atmosphere? Both
The Gumbo Shop (http://www.gumboshop.com) at 630 St. Peter
Street and the Napoleon House at 500 Chartres Street have
great Creole and Cajun food, atmospheric courtyards, and
suitable pedigrees.
For
traditional Cajun, head to K-Paul's
Louisiana Kitchen. Made famous by Cajun Chef Paul Prudhomme,
K-Paul's uses fresh, never frozen ingredients in every dish
and all preparations take place in view of the diners.
Creole
is more than the classics; a new generation of chefs, lead
most notably by Emeril Lagasse, have been redefining and
expanding the horizons of the cuisine. Lagasse's NOLA (http://www.emerils.com/nola)
"kicks it up a notch" at 534 St. Louis Street. Also worthy
of a visit are the innovative Bayona, at 430 Dauphine Street,
and Dominique’s Restaurant at 1001 Rue Toulouse. Dominiques
Restaurant was recently chosen as one out-of-ten best
new restaurants in the country and Bon Appetit recognized
Dominique’s as "one of the country’s best new restaurants"!
Even
picnics become banquets in this food-focused town, and you
can't leave the Quarter without eating a muffaletta or seafood
po-boy al fresco. You can purchase the latter from a number
of casual eateries, including the Gumbo Shop (http://www.gumboshop.com)
mentioned above. Central Grocery Co., at 923 Decatur Street,
is the place to go for a "muff," a titan of a sandwich with
salami, ham, cheese, and an olive-based spread that defines
meat-eater's heaven on a bun. With over 300 restaurants
in the French Quarter, the problem isn't deciding when to
eat, but where, what, and when to stop. We've only listed
a handful of favorites here; many others can be found in
online restaurant guides.
For
further inspiration, try Food
Fest New Orleans, with over 400 restaurant reviews.
Bon Appetit
